Chef Manish Mehrotra's Comorin makes little noise and a big splash

Comorin's dessert menu is filled with sugar and nostalgia. Even the Indian Accent signature Doda Treacle Tart has travelled all the way to Gurugram

A t 2 pm on a Wednesday, the eight-day-old Comorin at Gurugram's Two Horizon Centre is nearly packed, while its popular next-door neighbour, Whiskey Samba, is nearly empty. By dusk, the balance of power will have shifted.

The air will smell like a confection of exotic perfumes and the dimly lit bars that line the first floor in a semi-circle will come alive with throbbing music. That leaves a large open space in the middle that fills with people in the evening as corporate offices empty out. One would assume Indian Accent’s celebrity chef Manish Mehrotra’s first